These instructions will hopefully help you with handling your RLK blade. I’ll be adding pictures as time allows, and am always available by email for questions.
I start out with the billet. I like it to be 1” x 1” but can be thicker. It’s easier to drill into a nice squared billet to get a proper blade alignment. Also the length is all personal preference. My hook handles are 6” and Sloyd are 4-1/2” for reference.
Mark out the center of the billet on the end you plan to drill. Sloyds I drill at 1/8” hold to the depth of the tang.
On Hooks I drill a 5/16” hole JUST OFF CENTER (Right hand to the right of center) . The edge and the tang on the hooks are not centered so you may want to compensate for that.
When you drill make sure you don’t try and drill too deep, too quickly. Take small depths at at time. This way you can avoid drift and skewed blade alignment.
On the Sloyd blade you will need to burn the rest of the blade in once the pilot hole is drilled.
Wrap the blade in a wet towel and clamp it in a vise. I heat the last 1” of the tang to cherry red using a torch. Slowly push the billet onto the heated tang with the pilot hole there as a guide for proper alignment.
After holes have been drilled and burnt in, this is the time to carve, and shape the handle to your liking. I also suggest oiling the finished handle before you glue up.
At this point you are ready to glue up. I use a two part epoxy called West Systems G Flex. It is expensive, and generally needs to be ordered. Any two part epoxy will work, however I’d stay away from the fast setting (5 minute) epoxy. With some petroleum jelly on the blade ONLY (to keep any run off epoxy from sticking to it) Set blade into the carved and oiled handle. Set for at least 24 hours for proper cure.